Varq, Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi ~ Blogger’s Table

It's such a pleasure to meet up with old friends. It was smiles, greetings and cheers all the way... not to mention all the Royal leg-pulling. Back in town and attending Chef at Large Delhi Bloggers Table at Varq, Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi.
Varq is  No. 30 on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. It's Chef Hemant Oberoi's baby with Chef Manoj Goel behind the stove. Chef Oberoi reinvented Indian street foods to it's modern day contemporary expression. This expression is further enhanced by the ambiance and beautiful art work by Indian artist Anjolie Ela Menon.
Varq is any foil composed of a pure metal, typically silver, used for garnishing sweets in South Asian cuisine. It's about elegance, splendor, extravagance, affluence, all of which reflects in our experience at Varq, Taj Mahal, New Delhi. 

The elegant Chaat style amuse-bouche with flavours of  ginger, mango, chaat masala and lemon set the bar of expectations high.

Yes, this table has artillery in the form of cameras. We were served interesting coolers like Chai Martini's, Pineapple Basil and Orange Tamarind. The pairing that I was looking forward to was the Hibiscus tea.

The menu set by the Chefs had both vegetarian and non vegetarian options, and you would obviously know what I would choose..... gladly the non-vegetarian. The first course was Varqui Crab (Layers of crabmeat, tandoori shrimp on crisp filo sheets. The flavours came together well and the different textures were an added dimension. The vegetarians got Varqui  Khumb (Layers of spiced mushrooms, morel on crisp filo sheets) which people on the table found interesting.

Haleem Aur Kaabab (Hyderabadi delicacy served with lamb and chicken ganderi) The chicken kabab was wrapped on a Ganderi(sugarcane stick). It took me back to childhood when we sat with a pile of these in our backyard, chewing on them between games of Hide-n-Seek. The raw mango chutney in the shot glass was absolutely fantastic. The kebabs were soft like silk and tasted wonderful. The haleem was finger licking delicious. We had a small discussion with the chef about Hyderabad haleem and Awadhi haleem. I was a tad bit disspointed by the sheermal roti which was unappetizing. Instead of being soft and smooth, it was a bit chewy to me.
The vegetarians got Palak Patta Chaat (Layers of crispy spinach leaves with spinach chaat). Tasted some from Deepali's plate. It was crispy and nice. Everyone who had it was impressed.

The soup course had  Lobster Rassa (Cochin prawns, black pepper and fennel rusk, robust lobster broth). The plates arrived with the seafood(prawns, scallops, and crisp squid) and bread. The lobster broth was served on the table. Spices of the south, especially the black pepper made this dish a delight. The vegetarians were served Kale Channe Ki Cappuccino (cappuccino style flavored black chickpea broth) which all of us thought was innovative but somehow noone was raving about the taste.

The Gari Sorbet(ginger sorbet) palate cleanser offered a visual treat but wasn't a treat to my palate. The Sea Bass on Spiced Potato Dauphinoise (Pan seared chilean sea bass, layered potatoes, raw mango and coconut curry) had me going Mmmmmmmm with closed eyes.... The fish was done to perfection and the curry was fantastic. It will be this dish that I would go back for over and over again. The chicken option for this course was Kali Mirch Ka Murg (Corn fed chicken breast, relish, creamy black pepper curry) while the vegetarians enjoyed their Jaituni Malai Paneer (Stuffed paneer with green and black olive tapenade, roasted tomato sauce)

The table was excited about being served Martabaan Ka Meat(lamb cooked with pickled chilies). It's used for slow cooking. Slowcooking releases flavours like no other cooking method, it really works for me. However, this particular preparation wasn't able to make me feel the magic. It was served with sukhe aloo and palak-wadi. The side of Mozzarella and Tomato Kulcha was and interesting combination, done crisp just how i like my kulchas.
The Berry Pulao(Iranian) was very nice. The berries were authentic iranian berries and not indian substitutes which made the dish real. Was hoping to see a raita in this course. Would have been interesting to see a contemporary take on curd preperations. The vegetarians were served Martabaan Chole which got mixed reviews from the table.

The desserts.....
Innovation and hard work, both reflected in the Apple Kheer, Jalebi and Khaas Malpua. I'm not someone who enjoyes kheer but this one, it was lovely. All the elements came together very well, the chena at the base, the fruit, the level of sweet just right. Accompanied by the crisp and perfectly shaped jalebis and soft Malpua.
How can I stop at one.... Went wandering around to the famed dessert trolley at Varq. It had Gulab Jamun Creme Brulee and the Chocolate Dome.

As a special request off the regular menu, we were served with the Chocolate Dome. It's a Valrhona Chocolate dome, encasing a Chikki Kulfi, Flambé done on the table served with Bailey's Rabri. It was seriously great flavours and I'm going back for more. Am sure the look on my face would have been a very happy one as Nikunj also gave me a huge knowing grin. This one comes a full circle {all pun intended}

To be honest, I did find the menu a bit over priced {personal opinion}. However if you don't mind the price and want to have some contemporary Indian  food and be pampered, it's a place to visit. Sharing the signature tea was a thoughtful gesture.
Thank you Taj Mahal Hotel for hosting the table and Bhavna, Deepali and Nafisa for being such gracious hosts. Had lots of fun with you all, especially the Royal banter. Nikunj and the service team on our table were very attentive and prompt. Chef Hemant Oberoi's team led by Executive Chef Amit Chowdhury shared with us some of his kitchen secrets. It was a pleasure dining with you all.

This blogger table was also special as it's Ruchira's farewell {only in the physical form, online world is as wide open as it ever was} as she's moving to another country. We signed CAL plates for her, exchanged gifts and she even got us all hand written cards with a special note for all of us. That's how adorable and sweet she is. The rapid fire quiz was as innovative as her. 
The others at the table that night were  Sid of Chef at Large, Deeba of Passionate about Baking, Charis of Culinary Storm, Parul of The Shirazine, Sangeeta of  Healthfood Desi Videshi, Ruchira of The Great Cookaroo, Sushmita of My Unfinished Life, Rekha of My Tasty Curry, Mukta of Bake-a-Mania, Himanshu of The White Ramekins

Thank you so much for the warm welcome home.

Badam Kulfi - The Chakle India Cookbook - A Review

A new cookbook launch from an Indian author is always interesting. Laid my hands on Aditya Bal's book The Chakle India Cookbook and read it end-to-end as I lay in bed nursing an allergy induced ENT shut down. Having the doctor tell me to keep quiet for a few days and not talk is torture. Having Aditya's book for company was a bright spot. Having watched his show on NDTV, was curious to see what he's put together in the book. Like the show, his book is a collection of recipes from different parts of India. A book is not a mere collection of recipes... It's a story... It's a connect... The book has lovely pictures of Aditya with various people across the country in each section.

What I like about Aditya is his gumption to follow his dream in the world of Food... being a crossover.. having changed his career from modeling to a television food show host.... he has a lot under his belt to show for the short years he's spent in this space... Travelling to various parts of the country, entering the kitchens and homes of countless people, bringing a focus on diverse regional cuisines in India is something admirable. The map on the front and back cover of the book is a sweet nuance.

Recipes like Rogan Josh, Mutton Yakhni, Galawati Kabab, Amritsari Paneer Bhurji, Kosha Mangsho, Goan Prawn and Mango Ambotik, Malabari Prawn curry and Moru Sambhar represent the varied cuisines from most states of India especially from Kashmir(Since he was born there) and Goa (his favorite place where he trained at some of the restaurants).

Am more of a baker than a cook in the kitchen, with a h-u-g-e sweet tooth.... Started reading the recipes in reverse from the desserts section... There is Badam Kulfi, Nariyal Ladoo, Doodhi ka Halwa, Fruit Custard, Shrikhand, Phirni, Gulab Jamun, Aam ki Kheer, Seviyan and Shahi Tukda....

Haven't made too many Indian desserts before so thought of giving Badam Kulfi a shot. Yes, I hear you... my ENT is shut down and yet I choose Kulfi..... What to do... am a total icecream lover... promised my friends online that I would have just a bite to taste...
pick up

Badam Kulfi
Recipe from The Chakle India Cookbook by Aditya Bal

Ingredients
1 cup blanched, peeled and ground almonds
4 tbsp fresh cream
1 cup condensed milk
Apinch of saffron strands
1/4 cup of milk
A small handful of pistachios
A small handful of almonds, blanched and peeled

Method:
1.  First, to make the kulfi mixture, put the ground almonds, cream and condensed milk into a bowl and whisk thoroughly, till it's fully combined and thick.
2. Heat the milk in a small frying pan and when it's steaming hot, add the saffron strands to the pan, and let it infuse. turn off the heat and let the milk cool, stirring it every few minutes.
3. Once the milk is cooled, add it to the kulfi mixture and fold it in to combine well. The ground almonds will act as a thickener and absorb the milk completely. Whisk the mix well, till it is thick, creamy and homogeneous.
4. Now, heat a small frying pan and add the almonds and pistachios. Roast them for a few minutes on low to medium heat, till they are nutty and aromatic. Transfer to a chopping board and crush them coarsely with the side of a heavy knife or a rolling pin.
5. Reserve about 2tbsp of the crushed nuts and add the rest to the kulfi mixture. Stir through to combine. Now the mix is ready for pouring into the kulfi moulds or clay kujjas.
6. Spoon the deliciously rich and creamy mixture into each mould, cover with a piece of butter paper and secure with a rubber band stretched across the rim of the mould.
7. Put the moulds into the freezer and freeze for 3-4 hours or till the mixture has perfectly set and is hard in texture.
8. Take them out of the freezer and remove the butter paper. Dip the moulds into hot water and turn out the kulfi on a plate. Sprinkle a little of the reserved nuts and serve right away.

I kept the kulfi overnight and got lovely results the next day. It was as Aditya described it delicious, rich and creamy. The only small thing i's have done was to add some crushed cardamom to enhance the flavour a little more. It's a thing with personal taste and not Aditya's kulfi.

Leafing through the book, I found many Meat, Fish n Seafood and Vegetarian recipes. The snacks were interesting too. Would have loved the book even more if it could have better pictures, most of them were extremely close up shots of the dishes with their garnish standing out. Since this is Aditya, the traveler's book, would have expected pictures which did justice to both. Would have loved to hear a traveller's tales on how he collected these recipes from various people across the country. I believe every recipe has a story to tell which gets handed from from 1 person to the next gathering lots of moss on the way making it a tradition.

All I can think now is Saffron.... It's an artists's delight on canvas... The crimson strands making a yellow hue on warm white milk....  While making this recipe, I chanced upon a large number of packets stashed away in my mom's pantry. Am just sooooooo compelled to use them. Had infused some of it in milk for taking these pictures and had it with a glass of milk this morning.... Step aside, cold coffee... make way for saffron milk every morning.

Anushree from Westland publishers sent over the book for a review. Thank a ton, really enjoyed it :)